Economic Sustainability:
Textiles Get Responsible

Environmental sustainability is the ability to maintain the qualities that are valued in the physical environment.

It is clearly emerging that the world’s coastline and watersheds are increasingly affected by economic changes and environmental degradation, consumers have become edgy about the effect of human activity on the environment. In such a scenario, environment sustainability has become an industry in itself.

With increasing concerns regarding the effect of the textile industry on the environment, at all stages of its chain, i.e. raw material, fiber, fabric, apparel, processing; more and more textile researchers, producers and manufacturers are looking to biodegradable and sustainable fibers as an effective way of reducing the impact textiles have on the environment.

Mentioned below are examples (2.1 to 2.4) of textile companies across the globe using innovative technologies to reduce this burden. Organic farming and organic cotton are the best examples of this type of sustainability and much has been already written about the same. The listed examples are an attempt to explore more options within the textile chain and familiarize you with companies which are doing such change

2.1
Synthetics Use Technology to Get Green

Synthetics have always been considered a difficult chapter of textiles when related to the environment factor. They are produced from a depleting resource, i.e. crude oil. However, the advantages they present to the user ensure that they still hold an important position in the textile chain. Synthetics are easy-care, need less washing at a lower temperature thereby reducing power and water usage in aftercare. They also require less ironing and have a longer life as they wear better.

At the Premiere Vision 2008 which is one of the most important textile and apparel Trade shows world wide, Toray launched its “Ecodream”, which is a 100%-recycled polyester nylon. By reusing waste from its own nylon fiber production, the company has created a nylon 6 staple yarn and resulting woven fabric that is both, of a high quality and environmentally friendly.

This recycled yarn requires considerably less energy to produce than virgin nylon yarn and emits lesser CO2 by as much as 80% compared with virgin polyester production. Additional benefit is the reduction of waste since Toray’s waste is now its new raw material.

2.2
Creating Products Out of Recycled Textiles

Polyester is seen as one of the most straightforward fibers to reprocess and many companies have researched extensively on recycling this fiber.

In 1993, Pantagonia, the outdoor gear and apparel company adopted polyester fleece into their product line made from post consumer recycled plastic soda bottles

. In 2005, in partnership with Teijin, Pantagonia announced a garment take-back recycling program for its products and later extended it to include products made by competitors as well. Teijin has also introduced EcoCircle™, a fiber-to-fiber recycling system where worn-out polyester garments are recycled into virgin-quality fibers by breaking down the fabric to the molecular level and creating new polyester raw material.

At the ‘Outdoor Retailer Show’ 2007, Concept III which is a textile based solutions company that helps brands develop products has introduced eco-friendly fleeces that are as soft and luxurious as many of the virgin fleeces currently available in the market. The polyester yarn comes from recycled plastic bottles.

Concept III’s range of ‘Cocona’ knits and fleeces, include all of the inherent performance qualities from a naturally renewable and unusual natural resource, the coconut.

Most recently, UK Retailer Marks & Spencer announced that it has developed a range of school wear made from recycled plastic bottles, the first retailer to launch this brand new innovation.

Project Alabama, a clothing label founded in 2000 in the United States, is themed around sustainability. This year, the label has launched t-shirts called “Green T”. The 100 percent cotton t-shirts, each one-of-a-kind, use recycled fabric, water soluble dyes and hang tags and labels hand printed on recycled fabric.

Another important term is ‘Upcycling’ which is becoming a more dynamic approach to recycling. Under this concept the original products are recreated and value added for product longevity. The clothing label Project Alabama, sells embellished recycled materials that are hand-sewn by local artisans. There are a few labels that have taken this even further and aim to create a service for its customers where clothes are sent back to be remade using new components.

2.3
Textiles Revert to their Original State as Bio-degradable Material

Bio degradable textiles is another important aspect for maintaining environment sustainability and much research has been done in this regard by manufacturers worldwide.

Textile companies like Raymond and China Bambro Textile Company have introduced bamboo fabrics, which besides having anti-bacterial properties, is a 100% bio degradable fiber; ever while decomposing, it does not cause any pollution or harm to the environment.

Three companies - YKK Fastening Products, Toray and Ichimura Sangyo released an eco-conscious, biodegradable fiber called APEXA in 2007. The fiber produces eco-friendly garments, which can be changed back to a harmless natural state by the action of bacteria, thereby limiting damage to the environment.

Interface Fabrics, a leading US based carpet and home textile manufacturer has announced BioBac, a new coating made of 100% bio-degradable materials designed to replace acrylic and rubber latex backing for upholstery, wall covering and panel fabrics. BioBac can be removed from fabric through the application of heat and water thereby no longer hindering the recycling of the main fabric.

2.4
Final Processing, Green Processing

Fiber and chemical companies are looking at new finishing processes that use less, or no water and instead use chemicals and technology as sources of environmental solutions. In this regard, easy-care finishes that require less washing and laundering are being looked into. Finishes like bio-polishing that use natural enzymes have been developed to modify the surface of cotton fabrics to prevent permanent pilling and increase softness.

img6Latest example includes prominent Italian laundry and garment finishing company Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili. The company has been receiving requests from their premium customers for garment dyes using natural plant-based materials.

Likewise, Freshtex, a German washing, finishing & design development company has recently obtained certification for its eco-friendly laundry facility at the plant in Turkey, and will shortly be extending this to Sri Lanka.

As can be seen from the above examples, companies are becoming conscious and addressing this sustainability issue in myriad ways. The gap lies in educating the consumer on these updated technologies and their positive effect on their surroundings. Media can play an important role in educating the consumer in this aspect by running campaigns and promoting this aspect of textiles.
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